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The economist
Culture | World in a dish
How Provençal rosé became the summer tipple par excellence
When temperatures rise, wine-drinkers think pink
When the temperature reaches 26°C (79°F) in Britain, a few things happen. People strip off their clothes and flock to parks and swimming pools. And they buy rosé. According to Majestic, Britain’s largest wine retailer, 26°C is the exact point at which sales of the pink stuff outpace those of red and white. During a heatwave last year, the company sold one bottle every 12 seconds.当英国的气温达到26°C（79°F）时，就会有些变化。人们会脱掉衣服，涌向公园和游泳池。他们还会买玫瑰葡萄酒喝。根据英国最大的葡萄酒零售商Majestic的数据，26°C是粉色葡萄酒销售超过红葡萄酒和白葡萄酒的确切温度。在去年的一次热浪中，该公司每12秒就能售出一瓶玫瑰葡萄酒。
Rosé is the ultimate summer tipple. Like a strong, zesty margarita, a chilled glass of pale rosé makes a perfect aperitif. (Unlike a margarita, you can probably enjoy more than two without disgracing yourself.) People have been drinking versions of rosé wine for millennia, starting with the ancient Greeks. More than 2,000 years ago the ancient Romans started cultivating vineyards in Provence, in south-eastern France.玫瑰葡萄酒是完美的夏季饮品。就像浓郁而激昂的玛格丽特鸡尾酒一样，一杯冰镇的淡色玫瑰葡萄酒是绝配的开胃酒。（但与玛格丽特鸡尾酒不同的是，喝上两杯也不会让你失态。）人们几千年来一直在饮用不同的玫瑰葡萄酒，最早可追溯到古希腊时代。2000多年前，古罗马人就开始在法国东南部的普罗旺斯建立葡萄园。
Provence remains rosé’s heart. With 35% of global output, France is the world’s leading producer of rosé. It is also its leading consumer: a third of the bottles of wine drunk there are pink in colour. In the past 15 years, exports of Provençal rosé have increased by around 500%. Château d’Esclans sells an eye- and mouth-watering 10m bottles every year. LVMH, a luxury group that owns a number of revered champagne houses and wineries has, in recent years, bought Château Galoupet and acquired stakes in Château d’Esclans and Château Minuty, rosé juggernauts. In America, Whispering Angel, a pink wine produced by Château d’Esclans, sells the most bottles of any French wine of any hue.普罗旺斯仍是玫瑰葡萄酒的发源地。法国是世界上玫瑰葡萄酒的领头产国，在全球产量中占比35%。同时，法国也是玫瑰葡萄酒的主要消费国，法国人饮用的葡萄酒中有三分之一是粉色葡萄酒。在过去的15年里，普罗旺斯玫瑰葡萄酒的出口增长了约500%。埃克兰城堡（Château d’Esclans）每年销售约1000万瓶令同行垂涎欲滴的玫瑰葡萄酒。拥有多个备受尊敬的香槟酒庄和葡萄酒庄园的奢侈品集团LVMH近年来购买了Château Galoupet，还收购了Château d’Esclans和Château Minuty的股份，绝味玫瑰葡萄酒巨头。在美国，由埃克兰城堡生产的Whispering Angel玫瑰葡萄酒销售数量最多，超过了任何色调的法国葡萄酒。
Travel and social media help to explain the wine’s global spread. Before the pandemic, France was the world’s leading tourist destination. The pale wine came to be seen as sophisticated thanks to glitzy events such as the Cannes Film Festival. Social-media tributes like #roséallday (a celebration of day drinking) and #brosé (a hashtag used by men who enjoy the wine) have brought attention to the drink. Consumers have also warmed to the wine’s versatility, agreeing with Julia Child, a beloved television cook, who declared that “rosé can be served with anything.” Dry rosés, pleasantly acidic and refreshing (unlike the cloying notes rosé is infamous for, common in cheaper varieties), can accompany many cuisines well.旅游和社交媒体能解释粉色葡萄酒的全球爆火现象。在疫情之前，法国是世界上最受欢迎的旅游胜地。这种淡色的葡萄酒因盛大活动（如戛纳电影节）而被视为典雅的象征。像#roséallday（庆祝白天喝酒的活动）和#brosé（喜欢这种酒的男性使用的标签）等社交媒体上的致敬活动已经吸引了人们的注意。消费者也逐渐喜欢上这种葡萄酒的多样性，与备受喜爱的电视厨师朱莉娅·奇尔德（Julia Child）的看法一致，她表示“玫瑰葡萄酒可以搭配任何食物”。干型玫瑰葡萄酒具有宜人的酸度和清爽的口感（不像廉价酒那样令人作呕的味道），可以与许多美食搭配得很好。
Rosé still remains a target of derision among oenophiles. It has earned the offensive moniker “bitch diesel” (so named because it is pink and has been marketed to women). According to Sacha Lichine, the president of Château d’Esclans, says that when he first approached potential distributors he would get the door slammed in his face. Traditional folk, he adds, “think that it’s not a real wine. They think that it’s a Coca-Cola wine,” he explains.在葡萄酒爱好者中，玫瑰葡萄酒仍然是嘲笑对象。它因其粉红色并且曾经以女性为受众进行营销而被贴上了冒犯性的别名。埃克兰城堡的总裁萨夏·利奇尼（Sacha Lichine）表示，当他首次接触潜在分销商时，他经常遭到拒绝。他补充解释道，传统观念的人“认为这不是真正的葡萄酒，他们觉得这是可乐葡萄酒”。
Barbara Drew, a master of wine at Berry Bros & Rudd, Britain’s oldest wine merchant, suggests that people dismiss rosé as “not a serious wine” is partly because it generally does not age as well as red. That reduces its interest to some collectors and investors. But such squabbles ignore rosé’s central role in summer culture. Enjoying it is nothing to blush at. 平台限制过多，准备好的很多优质文章往往无法分享，浪费时间和精力；平台的呈现形式对于需要学习的同学较为不便......会，但每天只更新经.济.学.人部分板块文章。（很多写China的文章都很好，但不能发。）
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