




羊肉烹制技艺
Mutton Cooking Techniques
味觉与嗅觉是记忆的器官
记着游子们深刻的美味感受

01
起源
Origin

烤全羊起源于唐代,兴于元朝,盛于明清,烤全羊是蒙古族宴席上最讲究的一道传统名菜,有蒙餐之尊的美誉。
Roasted whole lamb originated in Tang Dynasty, popularized in Yuan Dynasty, and flourished in Ming and Qing Dynasty. Roasted whole lamb is one of the most elaborate traditional dishes at Mongolian banquets, and has the reputation of being one of the most prestigious Mongolian meals.
在内蒙古西部的阿拉善盟,因其独特的地理位置和气候环境,使这里的羊肉具有其他地方不能比拟的天然优势。烤全羊,蒙语称“好尼西森”。在蒙古习俗中,是用来接待贵宾的一道名菜。草原上最具盛名的是阿拉善札萨克王府中的烤全羊。
In Alxa League in the west of Inner Mongolia, due to its unique geographical location and climatic environment, the mutton here has a natural advantage that cannot be compared with other places. Roasted whole sheep, the Mongolian language, called "hao ni xi sen", in the Mongolian custom of roasted whole sheep is used to receive the guests of a famous dish. The most famous roasted whole sheep on the grassland is the roasted whole sheep in the Alxa Zasak Royal Mansion.
烤全羊作为盛宴的重头上座排场很大,伴随着马头琴悠扬的琴声,豪迈的内蒙古歌曲,开吃前,热情好客的蒙古人边唱歌边给宾客献上哈达,敬上美酒,再加上羊皮酥脆,羊肉嫩香,层层入味,齿间留香,回味悠长,就餐气氛就达到高峰。这也是阿拉善地区标志性的蒙古族文化大餐。2008年6月,阿拉善烤全羊被列入第二批国家级非物质文化遗产名录,是最知名的非遗食艺。
Roasted whole sheep as the feast's main scene is very grand, accompanied by the melodious sound of the horse-head violin, bold Inner Mongolian songs, before the start of the meal, the hospitable Mongolians sing while offering guests a hada, a toast to the wine. Coupled with the crispy lamb skin, lamb tender and fragrant, layers of flavor, lingering between the teeth, a long aftertaste, the dining atmosphere will reach its peak. This is also the iconic Mongolian cultural feast in Alxa, and in June 2008, roasted whole sheep in Alxa was included in the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage list, and it is the most well-known intangible food art.

02
工艺
Manufacture

清康熙年间,阿拉善第三代亲王罗布藏多尔济建王府于北京,阿拉善王府烤全羊便在蒙古族传统烤全羊基础上,吸收了北京“焖炉烤鸭”技法,形成了现今阿拉善烤全羊的独特地方风味,已有近300年的历史。
During the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, the third generation of Alxa's royal highness, Luo Buzang Duoerji, built the royal residence in Beijing, Alxa royal residence roasted whole lamb in Mongolia on the basis of the traditional roasted whole lamb, absorbing the Beijing "Braised Roast Duck" technique, forming the present Alxa roasted whole lamb's unique local flavor, which has a history of nearly 300 years.
阿拉善烤全羊须用特制的烤炉和阿拉善特有的梭梭柴作燃料,并选择个大尾肥,肉质鲜美,无膻味的阿拉善士种绵羯羊。在制作上,阿拉善烤全羊要经宰杀、烫毛、配料、烘烤等18道工序。先用刀在胸口割一小口伸手卡断大动脉方法将羊宰杀,然后用80度的开水烫羊身,趁热褪毛,摘除内脏,将羊身内外洗净待用。接着,在羊肚内和后腿、五叉等肉厚处用刀割若干小口,放进各种调料腌渍,并在羊身外面涂抹一层料酒,再把羊尾向内别到羊的股部。而后将胸部朝上,从四肢和中间用带钩的铁链钩住,挂入烤炉内,使羊在烤炉上膛悬吊。然后把烤炉上口用铁板盖严,用泥封好,并在羊下面准备铁盆,接装烘烤下来的羊油。这样安排好后,从炉璧半腰小窗口或炉下口,观察烤炉的火候。操作者用大铲、铁钩调整炭火,掌握烤制程度,直到烘烤完成。出炉后跪卧放置方木盘内,色泽金红,香飘满室,令人垂涎。
Alxa roasted whole sheep shall use a special oven and Alxa unique pike firewood as fuel, and choose a big tail fat, delicious meat, no gamy odor of Alxa unique local a kind of sheep. In the production, Alxa roast whole sheep to be slaughtered, scalding, ingredients, baking and other 18 procedures. First with a knife in the chest to cut a small mouth to reach out and cut off the aorta method of sheep slaughter, and then with 80 degrees of boiling water scalded sheep body, while hot, remove the hair, remove the internal organs, inside and outside of the body of the sheep washed for use. Then, in the sheep belly and hind legs, wucha and other meat thick place with a knife to cut a number of small openings, put in a variety of seasonings marinade, and in the outside of the body of the sheep coated with a layer of wine, and then the tail is secured inward to the sheep's femur.
And then the chest upwards, from the limbs and the center with a hooked chain, hanging into the oven, so that the sheep in the upper chamber of the oven hanging. Then the upper mouth of the oven is covered tightly with an iron plate and sealed with mud, and an iron basin is prepared under the sheep to receive the suet that is baked down. After this arrangement, the fire of the roasting oven is observed from a small window halfway up or under the oven biscuit. Operator with a large shovel, iron hook to adjust the charcoal, master the degree of baking, until the baking is complete. After the sheep is taken out of the oven and placed on its knees in a square wooden plate, the color of the sheep is golden red and the aroma floats all over the room, which is mouth-watering.
烤全羊的吃法也别具一格:将羊放置于大盘内,先端给客人观赏:然后由表及里,按皮、肉、骨的顺序逐样品尝,再辅之荷叶饼、小葱、面酱、包卷而食之,最后,再食用烤羊的调味汤煮的柳叶面。融合了烤鸭吃法之精华,创新了烤羊吃法之派别。
Roasted sheep eating method is also unique: the sheep placed in a large plate, the first end to the guests to see: and then from the surface to the inside, according to the order of skin, meat, bone by tasting, and then supplemented by the lotus leaf cake, thin pancakes, green onions, Willow leaved noodles sauce, wrapped in rolls and eat, and then finally consumed roasted sheep seasoned soup cooked Willow leaved noodles. It is a fusion of the essence of roasted duck eating style and an innovation of roasted lamb eating style.

03
影响
Influence

阿拉善烤全羊制作技艺历史悠久,源远流长,在漫长的岁月中,经过几代人的传承和发展,最终形成了今天的制作技艺。这一技艺凝聚着阿拉善地区各族人民勤劳和智慧,是中华民族饮食文化宝库中的一份珍贵遗产。保护和传承阿拉善烤全羊传统手工技艺,对于研究游牧民族的生活和民俗,丰富和发展中华民族饮食文化,具有不可低估的意义。
Alxa roasted whole sheep production technology has a long history, in the long years, through the inheritance and development of several generations, and finally formed today's production technology. This skill unites the hard work and wisdom of the people of all ethnic groups in the Alxa region, and is a precious heritage in the treasure house of Chinese national food culture. The protection and inheritance of the traditional craftsmanship of roasted whole sheep in Alxa has an inestimable significance for the study of nomadic life and folklore, and the enrichment and development of Chinese national food culture.
当前,阿拉善烤全羊制作技艺已被阿拉善盟列为特色美食文化展示基地和阿拉善地区非物质文化遗产旅游线路。相信在不久的将来,我们将能够更好地品尝到这道美食。
Roasted whole sheep as the feast's main scene is very grand, accompanied by the melodious sound of the horse-head violin, bold Inner Mongolian songs, before the start of the meal, the hospitable Mongolians sing while offering guests a hada, a toast to the wine. Coupled with the crispy lamb skin, lamb tender and fragrant, layers of flavor, lingering between the teeth, a long aftertaste, the dining atmosphere will reach its peak. This is also the iconic Mongolian cultural feast in Alxa, and in June 2008, roasted whole sheep in Alxa was included in the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage list, and it is the most well-known intangible food art.
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封面 | Rebecca 莱莱
编辑 | Rebecca 莱莱